What is a weed? Simply, a weed is any plant growing where you don't want it to be. That can include a wanted plant that gets a bit too enthusiastic about spreading!

Why weeds are a problem:
They are aggressive, look bad and can crowd out desirable plants. Some are toxic and attract pests as well.

Annual weeds are like annual flowers. Their life cycle is complete when the flowers go to seed. Removal when they are young, before they go to seed, is the main secret to getting rid of annual weeds.

Since many of us prefer to grow organically, perennial weeds are more of a problem. If you remove them, roots and all, when they are young you can eventually get rid of them. If they have a tap root, you must get it all or they'll be back! Dandelion and stinging nettle, for example, have taproots.

Getting to know weeds takes some skill. Most garden books have photos and descriptions. The best way if you're not sure is to bring a sample in for us to see. Our nursery professionals are trained in plant and weed identification. This is especially important if you feel you must resort to chemicals; please bring in the weed(s) involved and talk to one of our nursery professionals to ensure you have the right product for the job.

Some favorite flowers can become weeds if their growth becomes out of control. Vines are an example, especially the beautiful morning glory vine. They can choke out their neighbors — but are so beautiful they're worth the trouble. Just keep an eye on them. If they start getting carried away, be prepared to do a little clipping and guiding. They're great for covering old fences, sheds and tree stumps. Perennial morning glories are best; the annual types drop a whole lot of seeds.

Do note that some plants that are normally considered weeds have their uses! Consider clover. Although it is thought of as a weed in your lawn, it works great as a "cover crop" for a bare spot to enrich the soil. When you turn it in, it has nitrogen-fixing qualities. And purslane is considered a weed, but it is edible! You might want to consider transplanting some of your weeds instead of getting rid of them completely.

Fighting back against weeds:
Weeds are seasonal, just like some insect pests. Sometimes the time of year gives a clue to their identification. In the summertime, for instance, you will see purslane and spurge. These are annuals — hoeing, mulching and hand picking (before they go to seed) are usually successful. Hint — if you're turning your soil, keep an eye out after any deep digging - you may have brought dormant weed seeds up to the surface.

Seeds need moisture and warmth (the sun) to sprout, so a good thick mulch will do much to prevent weeds. Or you can pick weeds when they are small and, with a little elbow grease, you may be able to avoid chemical control. But be sure to get the roots — or they will be back. We carry many effective herbicides — but if you are unsure of what weed(s) you are fighting, please talk with our professionals before using one. The wrong choice will not work as effectively (or at all) and may harm desirable plants.

Why You Should Prune:

• Pruning dead, injured and diseased limbs from your plants helps keep them strong and healthy. Dead limbs can break in storms and damage other parts of the plant (or your house, if we are talking about trees).
• Pruning helps in producing larger, healthier flowers and fruit. Keeping a plant from overproducing also helps keep the plant healthy; overproduction can weaken plants.
• Pruning to shape trees and bushes makes for a nicer looking garden.
• Pruning for space keeps your plants from running wild and taking over the lawn or garden.
• Pruning can help restore vigor to older trees and shrubs, as well as improving appearance.

When You Should Prune:

• The best time to prune is during the plant's dormant season, generally in the winter.
• The exceptions are ornamental trees and shrubs grown especially for their spring flowers. Most of these should be pruned just after they bloom in the spring so the flowering buds are not removed.
• Evergreen plants can be pruned any time of year, but the best time is late winter or late summer, just before seasonal new growth begins.
• Evergreen plants susceptible to frost damage should be pruned after there is any danger of frost.
• Dead, injured, or diseased limbs should be pruned immediately.
  
  Tip: when you purchase a plant, ask us the best time to prune it.

Tools:

• Use hand shears for branches ¼ inch in diameter and smaller.
• Loppers are for larger jobs. The longer handles give you longer reach and better leverage. You can use these for branches up to about 2" on softwoods, less on hard woods (depending on the size and strength of the loppers — and you).
• Use pruning saws for larger branches.
• You might need a chain saw, or a professional tree cutter, for very large branches.

Technique:

Pruning techniques vary, depending on what you are pruning and why you are pruning. Here are some universals:

• The sharper the tool, the better. Using dull or rusty tools can harm the plant rather than help it.
• When pruning dormant plants, dormant spraying should be done immediately after pruning. If you feel lazy and decide to wait for a few days, you may find that new growth has begun to emerge. Your dormant spray will damage that tender new growth, setting your plant back and possibly resulting in deformed growth.
• When removing diseased limbs, get them away from the plant immediately and do not use the leaves for mulch, as that could spread the disease.

Warning: Regarding frost damaged plants: don't prune back the frost-damaged foilage until spring.

Blooms — Choosing a plant with flowers on it will give you an idea what season it blooms in and lets you know the plant is mature. Look for uniform color and shape. Splotches and streaks may be indications of a virus that you shouldn't take home.

Even if a plant is blooming when you buy it, be patient with it. The shock of going from a garden center to the typical home may cause an orchid to skip a season before it performs again. Don't get frustrated and throw it out, and don't take it personally. It's worth the wait.

Leaves — The same principles apply as when buying any plant. Look for medium-green, uniformly shaped and colored leaves with no black spots or streaks.

Insects — Greenhouse-grown plants are more susceptible to insects than home-grown ones. Don't buy infested plants — why take home trouble?

Roots — Look for white, fat roots with healthy green tips poking through the potting medium.

Potting medium — You may have seen orchids planted in potting soil covered with a layer of bark. Soil will smother and eventually kill roots. So don't make that mistake. If you are repotting an orchid, use all bark. If you are buying a new one, stick your finger in the mix to test it. It should be all bark and not soggy, but firm and damp or dry.

Alfalfa. Isn't that the stuff that gets made into hay and is fed to livestock?

Turns out that's only part of the story. Alfalfa can also be a big boon to gardeners - by making their roses happier and healthier.

It's a crop with a long history. Because of acid soils and high humidity along the Atlantic seaboard, early colonists couldn't grow alfalfa well and nearly abandoned it. But it came west with the Gold Rush and flourished, and today the crop has become so popular in California that it is known in many agricultural circles as the "Queen of the Forages."

Besides being praised in agriculture, alfalfa has become a hit in horticulture, too, particularly in rosedom. As a mulch for garden roses, it does far more than retard weeds.

As it disintegrates, alfalfa yields an alcohol, triacontanol, to which roses take a particular shine. When it reaches their roots, roses act as though they've been aching for a stiff drink and manifest their appreciation with basal breaks, rosarian lingo for new growth emanating from the bud union (the landmark created by budding hybrid roses onto rootstock).

Rosarians live for basal breaks; they're the ticket for increased vigor and better production. An annual mulching with alfalfa nearly guarantees such spirited developments.

"Mom and Dad were true "Master Gardeners. I reaped the benefits of their gardens and their love for gardening but never did any of the work myself. I came to work at Newell Nurseries a couple of months ago and now I want to grow everything!"

"There is so much knowledge among the staff here and everyone has been great sharing what they know. I hope I will soon be able to share what I am learning."

Shorty was born in Los Angeles and has lived her life in California. She has a daughter, Cassandra, a grandson, Angelo, age 7 and granddaughter, Tiana, age 3. Cassandra is a Veterinary Tech. Angelo plans to become a Superhero and Tiana believes she is a princess - and plans to stay one.